Let’s go to Tokyo!

The adventure has begun. 

Depart: London Heathrow, 11am. 

Brief stop in Moscow, Russia

Arrive: Narita Airport. Tokyo, Japan. 10:30am local time. 

“Welcome to Japan” the lovely lady chimed as we headed towards passport security checks. We were oh so very overjoyed to be off that plane, finally on solid ground and so close to fresh air again. Tired and excited we went to get our bags only to find an unfamiliar pink suitcase solely riding the carousel with a piece of paper stuck on that listed our names along with five others. Oh dear. Our bags were still in Russia. Surprised? Not so much. Moscow’s airport was absolute anarchy and we were facing the consequences. 

After 20 hours in the same outfit it’s pretty hard to still feel at all fresh let alone glamorous. We had to fill out some forms and then trying to remain optimistic we headed on down to the JR (Japanese Rail) ticket office. A lovely lady gave us our rail passes and then it was straight to Starbucks for much needed caffeine and ham and cheese toasted sandwiches. With complete ease we hopped on the Narita Express and were on our way to Tokyo city. We flew past, watching the landscape gradually develop from rural rice fields to urban skyscrapers. James booked us an AirBnB based in Shinjuku; a busy and thriving area of Tokyo. After a 20 minute walk we arrived at the place we would call home for the next four nights. 

Now James wasn’t too bad but I was not feeling fantastic at all. The first part of the flight to Russia was only four hours and the excitement was still fresh and powering me along. After the interesting experience at Moscow airport the second flight quickly lost appeal and became 9.5 hours of pain. There was turbulence, loud roars from the engines and questionable tasting water. I nearly threw up as soon as we landed and the whole time we were walking towards our flat I was wondering if what we would find would be worth that hellish experience and the lack of a good cup of tea to fix it. 

I slept for six hours as soon as we arrived and then we woke around 10pm and headed out to explore a little and find food. The area is great, with all the bright lights and crazy 
Lanimated signage that you hope for from Tokyo. We found a little restaurant called Yayoi and through the window we could see that you order on screens as soon as you arrive, pay and then sit down and they bring everything to you. Easy, cheap and surprisingly delicious.

Sunday - we could collect get our bags! Clean clothes, clean underwear, toiletries, everything!! Back on the train and we go to Narita again, meet a lovely fellow traveller whose bag also got left behind and are finally reunited with our bags! Happy and buzzing we head back, get ready all over again and head out to truly begin our Tokyo 
adventures. 

We decided to hit the famous Shibuya crossing first. Thankfully our lovely AirBnB host has provided a selection of umbrellas as the rain is torrential. We hopped on a train and within minutes we’ve arrived at the ridiculously busy and even more ridiculously wet tourist destination. And my gosh it’s busy - there are umbrellas EVERYWHERE! It’s a maze getting to the crossing and crossing it almost feels like an Olympic sport, especially if like us you’re trying to get a picture out of it. I mean, at the end of the day it’s a road crossing but there is something about the sheer size, the backdrop of towering buildings with colourful advertisements and the insane crowds which just makes it so much more exciting. 

 After our mini photo shoot we diverged down side streets in search of snacks and drinks. We find a sushi conveyor belt place which has raving internet reviews. Armed with touch screen menus we enjoy small plates of sushi, plum wine and beer. To while away the rest of the evening we follow a friends recommendation and head to Golden Gai in 

Shinjuku. 

This is a surprisingly small area of narrow, maze like streets all made up of about 300 little bars, all having their own unique touch and some even charge just to get a seat at the bar. We meander our way around and then decide on a little place where we can see the barman playing a guitar. We drink plum brandy, yuzu schochu and sake whilst listening to The Stone Roses. Our barman recommends different 
Mfoodie places to check out all over Japan and a Japanese couple join in agreement over onimiyaki - although they disagree on whether Hiroshima or Osaka style is better. I guess we will have to wait and see. 

We ventured back out and come across another place where there was just the barman and one customer. Both of whom look wasted or like they’re on drugs and so obviously we thought it would be a good idea to join their little party. It ends after two glasses each of Hibiki whiskey and the Mambo Ibiza playlist. We ended the night in a questionable place with burning hot ramen and much to my detest; beer. A successful first day!

Day 2 in Tokyo and the rain is coming down strong. We got the subway to Chiyoda district but the train just flew past our stop so we got off at the next and searched for food. We found a little restaurant on a quiet street and I got beef curry and James gots pork curry. Both were extremely yummy. As we were paying the chef heard us tell the waiter that we really enjoyed our lunch and he came over, bowed and thanked us. Everyone there is so polite! 

We then head to Yasukuni Shrine and stroll around. The sheer size of the gates is amazing. This area is in memory of lives given during wars and treats everyone as equal no matter their standing which is beautiful. It’s a very peaceful place, right in the middle of the city, with a sacred pond and plum grove to stroll around too. 

Then we took the barmans advice from the previous night and went to Nakano Broadway which turned out to be a giant shopping centre with quite a few tourists which we’re not so keen on. However, in the basement level we did find Daily Chico and an 8 layered ice cream for only 500¥ so of course we got one.

For dinner James found a place in Asakusa called Gonpachi which was absolutely delicious! Totally faultless and I’ll talk about more in a separate blog post. In Asakusa you can also find the famous Senso-ji Temple. I’m so happy we chose to visit at night as the whole place was completely lit up and glowing. Plus the rain had stopped by then and there were hardly any other people around. The temple has a large walkway down towards it that in the day is usually crowded with stalls and shoppers but at night they pull down the shutters to reveal simple and delicate artwork. The whole area glows in red and gold. I really recommend visiting at night as it made it so much more intimate and magical. 

Day three and the sun was shining - hooray! Inappropriately dressed (ready for clouds and rain) we went to the Imperial Palace and the East Gardens. After a morning of peace and culture we ventured to the extremely contrasting Harajuku area. The Main Street is extremely busy and filled with weird and mainly touristy things. After seeing it online a few months ago we decided to add to the experience and went to Monster Cafe for our lunch. What to say about Monster Cafe..... it’s definitely unusual! One big room decorated in the most peculiar fashion. We didn’t see a show but the Harajuku girls do walk around to say goodbye and thank you to everyone. The food? Don’t waste your money. Small portions and beans on toast probably 
tastes more accomplished in all honesty. 

For our last evening we got a little more dressed up and then went back to Harajuku/Shibuya area as we had read about a great gyoza place. Obviously it was a little too great as the queue was down the street. I like good food but I’m not great at waiting for it. We ended up getting lost down a huge road which had the largest Dior store I’ve seen and a huge Harry Winston and then in a very quiet residential area. Finally we found a Yakatori restaurant which was great as there wasn’t a tourist in sight and the food was really yummy! We had 
chicken, duck, onigiri, asparagus and spring rolls. 

To add the cherry on top of our finally night we thought we needed to take part in one last activity - karaoke! On the road near our flat there was a big company where you could get private rooms and sing to your hearts content. It was great fun and probably would be even better if there was more than just two of you! As we left and went to pay though we realised James’s wallet was no longer with us. We searched around and tried to ask the staff but there was no hope. Luckily it didn’t have anything that couldn’t be replaced so after a £25 phone call to cancel a few cards we had finished our time in Tokyo! 

Tokyo is an amazing city. There is enough history dotted about so you can enjoy the architecture and the tradition of old Edo. It’s large and vast and there is always something going to do at most hours. Everyone told us it was expensive and it is if you chose to do Tokyo that way. Our first dinner cost £10 for the two of us and our meal at Gonpachi was around £70 which you would have paid doubled for in an English city. If you use the public transport and go down the side streets for your food then anyone can come here and enjoy all the delights Tokyo has to offer. Everyone is so kind and helpful; this is one city you can get lost in but not feel lost in. 

Love, Rachael x